I was thinking... Follow to code they suggest a best of 12 lamp or outlets per circuit, or 80% that the fill of 15 amp circuit... Idk if ns am getting puzzled here however I to be planning to usage slimled 9w 120v lights, 80% of the load is 12 amps which is approx 1440 watts.. Ns am looking to put around 22 lamp throughout whole basement with a few switches... Each light according to my math would be 9w or 0.075 amps.. So technically I might put every one of these lamp onto 1 circuit ? in Canada btw.

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The codes have actually not really recorded up v the LED lights yet , i think you space fine as long as these space light fixtures through a Led diode and also not one LED pear that might be removed and replaced v a different form of bulb. Wait and also see what Aaron and also Wayne have to say ~ above this.

Yeah in the NEC code for the US, there actually is no border to the number of outlets (which describes both lights and also receptacles) per branch circuit. You have to make the load calculation yourself. Ns think Canada CSA code does have a border on the variety of outlets every branch circuit - it might be 12 as you say, Wayne would know for sure. Either way, friend shouldn"t assume the the lights will constantly be LED. I would still wire the circuits through the presumption that an old-fashioned 100W incadescent might be screwed in come the socket.Shannon"s right that the codes haven"t caught up with LEDs. Ns think it still adheres to a sort of worst-case scenario for high-wattage lights.

Jmaclicious wrote:I was thinking... Follow to password they indicate a best of 12 lights or outlets per circuit, or 80% that the load of 15 amp circuit... Idk if ns am getting confused here however I am planning to usage slimled 9w 120v lights, 80% the the pack is 12 amps i m sorry is approx 1440 watts.. I am looking to put around 22 lights throughout entire basement with a few switches... Each light follow to my math would be 9w or 0.075 amps.. For this reason technically I can put every one of these lights onto 1 circuit ? in Canada btw.
If her circuit has actually ONLY lighting, then you room not bound come the "12" tools rule.As Shannon said, you have to calculate the wattage of the fixture, no the light. Ie. If the fixture says maximum 100Watts ... That"s what you have to calculate.Many that the more recent LEDs (don"t accept conventional bulbs) space rated very low .... For this reason you have the right to put A lot of them ~ above the circuit.If girlfriend put also 1 receptacle on this circuit ... You"re earlier at the 12 max gadgets thou !
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With AFCIs being essential now in most locations it make sense to store lighting circuits and also receptacle circuits be separate IMO.
Yes, agreed... I would constantly keep lighting separate from receptacles. That way you have the freedom to have just 2 or 3 lighting circuits in your entire house, and run castle in through low-cost 14/2.I have the right to see some time in the future where we may even run LED-exclusive bright circuits v 16/2 or also 18/2, associated to a 10A or 5A breaker.
Shannon wrote:With AFCIs being needed now in most locations it make sense to save lighting circuits and receptacle circuits be separate IMO.
Most guys are wiring that way now. Saves on an AFCI breaker ... Also, acting detectors should be operation off a light circuit. If the circuit has AFCI, friend either should run a different circuit come it, or have the smoke det through battery backup.
I think smoke/CO detectors chandelier to have actually their own specialized plain breaker with 14/3 operation from the dashboard to the first detector and also daisy-chained to each one down the line. You require that 3rd red conductor because that alarm interconnection. The red wire stays stubbed in the breaker panel because that future add-on alarm interconnection.
Aaron wrote:I think smoke/CO detectors ought to have their own committed plain breaker v 14/3 operation from the dashboard to the first detector and daisy-chained to every one down the line. You need that 3rd red conductor for alarm interconnection. The red wire continues to be stubbed in the breaker panel for future add-on alarm interconnection.
I think they are usually placed on a lighting circuit so that if the breaker trips because that some reason you will be conscious of the sooner and get the problem fixed . If they room on there own and also tripped the breaker for some strange reason you might not even realize it and they will not be activated.

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Oh, that"s actually a very great point.Most modern-day ones will certainly sound or screen an alarm or something if they do not have actually AC power, and also I think every AC-wired ones have actually a 9V battery backup. But yeah, they take it hardly any type of AC power at all so tapping them turn off a light circuit is actually not a poor idea and really nudges the homeowner come take care of the circuit rather than simply ignoring it--as human being tend come do.